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Safari Report: Okavango Horse Safaris, Botswana
Framed between my horses smooth white ears was the stately form of
a majestic African elephant. As the bull moved closer to inspect these
unusual looking zebra his massive body no longer fitted between my
erect equine sights. His rounded belly now bulged on either side of
the fine Arab ears, while his raised head, tusks and trunk filled
the gap between. Suddenly the elephant was in full view, for me to
behold his imposing presence, as my horse, a homebred, Arab cross
American Saddler, now bored with yet another elephant sighting lowered
his head and tore at the lush green grass at his feet.
It was incredulous to sit aloft an unfazed horse and enjoy a close
encounter with this huge, grey animal, who’s long and shapely
vegetable stained tusks surrounded an up curled, scenting trunk. The
setting was staged to the sound of horses munching contentedly on
the lush rich grasses of the Okavango while opportunity presented
itself.
A small group of us had flown from various countries to the sublime
beauty of the Okavango Delta, an aquatic gem magically embedded in
the dry sands of northern Botswana. This was the highest level that
the life giving waters of the earth’s largest inland delta had
been in 12 years. Eight of us were seated on full-blooded 4 x 4’s.
A variety of well-schooled and much loved horses, owned by Barney
and PJ Bestelink who operate and own the longest established horse
safaris company in Southern Africa. With PJ’s wealth of knowledge
gleaned from 32 continuous years of safaris in the Delta combined
with Barney’s unmatched dedication and understanding of her
herd of 54 horses, it is no wonder that this is one of the premier
riding holidays to be found anywhere.
During our six days stay in this scenic and animal rich wilderness,
we never encountered a single human that wasn’t part of their
small, friendly and well organised staff. There were no power, railway
and telephone lines, tar or gravel roads, villages, farms, fences
or sign of man. Our senses were allowed to feast on a kaleidoscope
of multi coloured birds and flowers, a variety of perfectly formed
wild animals in their hundreds scattered across the endless expanses
of grasses; red, orange, yellow and lime green, waiving in a welcome
spring breeze.
This was to be my fourth visit to Okavango Horse Safaris, this time
though, with a special addition for me; my 12 year old daughter who
had been pleading to come for years. I had been apprehensive in the
past to bring her to pursue her love for horses and the great outdoors.
As an overcautious parent I had worried about her not being strong
enough to control her horse if we found ourselves in an unplanned
situation.
It is difficult to describe how endearing it was to watch her follow
Barney like a shadow as we cantered for long periods along well used
elephant trails. These ancient highways wound their way along the
periphery of the channels and lagoons which make up so much of their
2500 square kilometre concession within the Delta. I watched from
behind as her ponytail bobbed rhythmically and her smile seemed to
meet at each ear.
She rode three sprightly little Arabs and a 16-hand thoroughbred with
ease and passion. They were not at all like riding school ponies that
are often devoid of individualism. Each of us rode at least three
horses during our five-day stay, every single rider so happy with
each mount that we were reluctant to change. Yet each time we were
presented with a new horse, it wasn’t long until the fond memory
of the last horse began to wane by the comfort and responsiveness
of the new mount.
Each morning at the break of dawn we were greeted by a cheerful voice
as tea, coffee and biscuits were placed on the veranda of our comfortable
safari tents. Within half an hour we were clutching our second cup
of coffee around the flickering flames of a welcoming camp fire as
we compared nocturnal noises. We were only metres away from the edge
of the still, glass like waters of the Kudjwana Lagoon, reflecting
the soft pastel colours of the dawn sky. After a light breakfast of
assorted cereals, fruit, porridge, toast and rusks we mounted in time
to enjoy the suns fiery globe, cresting an expansive horizon. It was
a welcome sight on three mornings when all our senses were instantly
awakened as we swam our horses across lily covered lagoons to our
waiting saddles and dry clothes on the opposite side. These had been
poled across by makoro (fibreglass replicas of dug out canoes). There
were yells of shocked delight as our horses backs submerged beneath
the water cooled by a chilly night. We straddled our horses bare back,
one hand clutching a fist of mane the other a knotted rein.
My daughter aged 10 swimming a channel on Mexico |
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While drying off
and changing into our jodhpurs, chaps or leggings our horses
were saddled up by smiling staff, amused at the human spectacle
they had just witnessed. For the next few hours we explored
a postage stamp piece of the Okavango Delta from the elevated
position of our horses. It was incredible how close we could
approach all the animals, which showed no signs of fear or stress.
The upright silhouette of this two legged beast that had persecuted
them for centuries was broken as we sat astride a colourful
collection of Arabs, Thoroughbreds, Boerperds and Saddlebreds.
The water loving red lechwe were plentiful as were zebra, wildebeest,
tssesebe and impala. What a thrill to canter alongside the slow
motion gait of a lone giraffe or to feel, taste and smell the
dust of a zebra herd, only metres in front of us as we chased
at a playful canter. |
After two hours we would dismount, cross stirrups and lead our horses.
This was to give their backs a rest and stretch our legs. We didn’t
have aching backsides thanks to excellent tack and the comfort of
saddle savers.
After mount up, we set of for another few hours of cantering, trotting
and walking along game trails through a variety of habitat. From the
soft Kalahari sands shaded by gnarled camelthorn acacia forest we
would enter a treeless expanse of shallow channels and lagoons fringed
by shoreline birds and waterfowl.
Our riding was punctuated by an orange and chocolate break which always
seemed to arrive at an opportune time. Our horses were tied in a half
picket, stirrups pulled up, girths loosened and nose bands released.
These stops were always in a scenic area, offering the elevated view
of a shaded termite mound. Before setting off again saddles were moved
forward, coats checked to ensure there was no saddle rub. The lack
of saddle sore scars is testimony to the care and attention given
to Barney and PJ’s most important assets. The ride would then
loop back to camp arriving at around 1:00 pm with a group of ravenous
riders and horses. Both were well fed within minutes. Our variety
of well prepared and wholesome meals looked far more appetising than
that of our faithful mounts who are generously fed at dawn, noon,
dusk and midnight.
During the afternoons we were taken out on game walks, poled in mokoros,
planed along narrow channels by PJ in the motorboat to bird watch,
fish and enjoy the unblemished beauty of this magnificent area. Game
drives retuned beneath the powerful beam of a spotlight, searching
out the reflective eyes of those fascinating creatures that inhabit
the secretive cover of darkness.
Ten minutes into our makoro trip we were treated to a cheetah feeding
off its impala kill. This spectacular sight was accompanied to a display
of six bull elephants who playfully splashed, dunked and submerged
their black pachyderm bodies less than a hundred metres away.
On the second morning we rode off to Kiri Camp, one of two fly camps,
half a days ride from Kujwana base camp. From this secluded little
camp we rode out daily to explore a new area and different habitat,
home to large herds of animals. Although a smaller and more rustic
camp we still wanted for nothing. The days dust was washed of by hot
bucket showers beneath a star studded sky. Spacious tents offered
comfortable beds covered with clean sheets and duvet. Colourfully
dressed camp staff served delicious meals.
Our ride home to the base camp for our last night took most of the
day. As we entered the deep shade of an extensive ebony grove we were
staggered by a table spread with an appetising picnic lunch, spread
from end to end. Stretcher beds were made up for us to point ten toes
to the sky during the midday heat. Late that afternoon as we approached
camp, we were treated to our longest and most exciting swim with our
trusty steeds, while PJ kept watch for crocodiles and hippo from a
nearby motor boat.
The highlights for me? There were many. One of the most important
was the high calibre of horses we were all provided with. Then on
our first day PJ noticed a tree draped thick and heavy in vultures.
As we rode up eleven hyena guiltily appeared out of a thick clump
of red and orange grass. They were feeding off a freshly killed zebra.
Our horses were reluctant to go in too close; they could smell the
strong stench of blood and opened gut. I could feel the pounding heartbeat
against my left calf as I urged my silver grey towards the kill. It
was surrounded by whooping and cackling hyena who resembled crazy
court jesters in their spotted coats and bloodied faces. All our horses
reversed back a few paces as a flock of vultures noisily flew up from
the rapidly diminishing carcass. A bold hyena ran off with a striped
foreleg while another gave chase. We spent close on 30 minutes enjoying
one of natures wild spectacles, all from the elevated comfort of our
loyal, hard working 4 x 4s that gave each of us the opportunity to
be individuals. Not all bouncing around in the back of a mechanical
4 x 4. Possibly the most special of all for me was to hear my daughter
mention that the horse safari with Barney and PJ had been the best
experience of her life!
Other Horse Safari Reports
>The Migration in Masai Mara,
Kenya
>The Ride Home in the Okavango,
Botswana
>Okavango Horse Safaris, Botswana
Sample itineraries
>10
day Okavango Delta, Botswana
>10 day Mara, Kenya
>10 day Laikipia, Kenya
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Overview
